Some of things I don't fully understand 11cc pistons I know this is a measurement but foe what? I understand how the parts work together. These rods are an H-Beam design that are forged 4340 steel. I'll call some shops after I have the money ready. Then rebuild the bottom end with flat top forged pistons with valve reliefs, and instal a Comp 282S cam and you'll be there. Are you going to rebuild the 351? They slid right in as we started to mate the rocker arms with the heads. This combo runs real good and is completely street worthy with 91 octane. I don't need 500hp yet so I'm putting together a motor I can run on the street while I work out the kinks in the rest of the car and save up for whatever motor I'm gonna build next.
A handy trick for the 351 Windsor is using parts from its cousins. Here is the quick run down on the parts we came up with. I still need to find a good shop in town. Are there any good book that can help learn about this stuff too. I agree with those figuring 9+:1 compression. There's virtually zero bore wear very low mileage so I'm just putting fresh rings, bearings, oil pump, etc in.
Weight of car with driver 2800lbs. It is a self learning, extremely easy system to install and use and no tuning is needed! Pistons with valve reliefs specifically made for Twisted Wedge heads will still work with these heads, though. I have seen guys run 600+ horse power all season long on a stock block and not have any issues. Ready to be plugged into a Fox Body. It came with a roller cam and a one-piece rear main seal from the factory. These include breather holes on the driver side which we filled using a black satin breather to match. I really want to get my car into the 12's with the 3.
Cross section is very small on the intake and exhaust. That is why I was looking for a cheap off the shelf Hyd roller cam. For a hot street car the big motor is best but it still needs good heads. I think if you pick the right combination of parts parts that work well together it should be no problem. Yes, 351W block and rods, 302 pistons, and 3.
The results were very nice. They are much maligned nowadays, but they are really good parts from my experience. I say this because I'm right down the road from you and in the market for a set of gt-40's. As a result, the crankcase is much larger, which-in conjunction with the tall deck-can accommodate bigger crank counterweights for easier balancing. Which cam would be the best for this combo? Going with a 650 is slightly big for a 302 but if you change to a 351w or a 302 Stroker down the road you won't have to buy a new carb.
That combination was good for 391 hp at 5,900 rpm and 405 lb-ft at 4,300 rpm. With the mass proliferation of tall-deck aftermarket blocks and dirt cheap stroker cranks, the grunt and cubes that were once the exclusive territory of big-blocks can be had in a tidy, compact package. Treat me like an idiot on this thread and tell me if I bore it this much use this and that to hit my goal. How hard are heads to rebuild with new valve seals and seats? I don't fully understand what parts work best with what other parts. I always like to learn as much as I can. This is more of a street strip car with lots of torque down low where I wanted it. I really don't know what it all means.
I've still got to buy a cam, lifters, and pushrods, but other than that I've scrounged everything else I need. But, you can achieve plenty of additional head-flow and subsequent power by simply installing high performance cams. If I'm having them do just the short will they still check for valve clearence for me? The heads were machined to accept a set of 1. I also have to keep this motor low dollar. The tall deck also positions the camshaft much higher in the block, virtually eliminating interference issues between the cam and the rods. Your going to have to up grade the springs on the heads to run a better cam than the explorer. What people refer to a a super torque motor is a motor that does not have enough airflow to spin 9000 rpm with the displacement of the shortblock.
So using what I already have a 1969 351w motor. Right now I have a 302 60 over with 10-1 comp. For a mostly street car. If the engine is low mileage enough to not need the cylinders bored, then why does it need a rebuild? It is New in box. I push my fingers into my eyes.
I'm just curious if anybody has had luck running a stock bottom end for any length of time. If you're manual, it makes it easier than an automatic, however you need to consider other upgrades like a solid clutch set, and a aluminum driveshaft to reduce your parasitic horsepower loss. We used this opportunity to test a few different intake manifolds. If you come across any parts let me know. Did we mention this was on 91 octane pump gas and all at below 6,500 rpm? Bluegras Journeyman Posts: 64 From: Easton,Pa.
We spoke with Troy for about an hour on the phone as he started to come up with a game plan. After a bunch of testing. Blending won't pick up much. Maybe I should have gone a little closer. Staggering the jets and air bleeds really helped cylinder-to-cylinder variance, and Bob dipped into some emulsion jet changes to even things out.