The transfer case shift control module supplies an 8-volt reference and a ground circuit for the encoder Hall effect sensors to function. All the parts are new. Improper installation of the encoder could result in a repeat failure. Speaking of more parts that are supposed to be replaced, once you have the encoder motor safely on your work bench ready for surgery, there are 4 screws you will need to remove. Each time I needed to adjust it I had to take the encoder motor apart.
If I replace the sensor, is this going to solve my problem? In an attempt to help keep water out. Remove the double clamped boot clamps at the transfer case side first, but when it comes to actually removing the driveshaft itself, drop it at the front axle yoke side first. After the 10 second period has ended, the indicator reverts back to the previous mode selection. I hope this helps someone down the road, feel free to contact me if you have a similar problem. Please let my experience act as a guide. Moving back to the transfer case, for both styles of boots, stretch the boot onto the transfer case output shaft until the boot snaps into the groove.
Now is the time to make sure the timing is right. Seat the wire harness into the channel, and put the shim you took off earlier back on to the output shaft gear. The whole process looks a heck of a lot harder than it was. Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 1 Circuit Low and P2127 - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2 Circuit Low would lead you to suspect a defective accelerator pedal position sensor. I have no way of knowing for sure if this hand rotation set the stage for having to replace the encoder sensor or not, but I'm not willing to find out by doing it again either. I am just going to call voltage, 12 volts rather than mess with 12.
And I tested them on my other 2004 Sierra. Verify that no damage or corrosion exists on either male encoder terminals or female wiring harness terminals. I really hope someone reading this can help or point me in a direction. It was just a thought anyhow. I indexed everything, using a sharpie to mark the parts, that the guy on the video indexed and did not have any problem getting it all back together correctly on the first try! The mechanical timing is also something that you should check, as we mentioned above. I'm not convinced that the motor is bad.
Important: Carefully handle and install the new encoder. It's simply removing the motor from the transfer case, removing the motor housing, unplugging the old sensor, plugging the new sensor in, and reinstalling the motor. If your are for a different car, select that vehicle series before searching for the diagnostic codes because not all used by one manufacture are used by the other makes. Before you take a test drive after a repair, always erase the C Code s first. What an electronic control module is? The sensor and wiring harness will come with the gear.
But that is just a premonition. That code is pretty vague, it's kind of like having a code that states the engine doesn't start. If both check out, reinstall the electrical connector to the transfer case motor. Thanks to those of you who posted previously!! Part Number: 2: Connect the wiring harness to the sensor. Check the C151 connector on the left fenderwell for possible poor connection.
Finally, the operation can begin. I discovered that I had not secured the wiring harness and the drive shaft wore through a wire to the encoder motor. I have read where a lot of people have had no luck trying to fix this and the delaers charge big bucks for it. If no concerns have been found with the above checks, replace the encoder sensor. Replaced the switch in the dash but nothing. C0327 code one of these arms follows the cam profile while the second arm connects to the valves. If I replace the sensor, is this going to solve my problem? This will turn the check engine light off and then you will know if the check engine light returns, you've got further diagnostics to complete.
If fluid is contaminated remove the Transfer Case and inspect for mechanical concerns. The shim on the output gear can be saved and reused. This will ensure proper installation of the sensor. There is no solid fact behind that caution, other than the clocking mojo that is inside the encoder and front drive line actuators. The on-board diagnostics system and engine control unit are in charge of monitoring a bunch of different, and if they get a reading that's a little out of whack, up pops the check engine light. Obviously marking or indexing won't hurt if you have a concern though.
I have a 2004 Sierra 1500 4wd and I am having problems with the 4wd. Carefully remove the cover from the encoder motor assembly. Before you take a test drive after a repair, always erase the C Code s first. I want to test the plug that plugs into the shift motor. My only suggestion would be to make the location of the gears on the inside of the motor when you have it disassembled.
There was no need to remove the driveshaft and no need for reprograming afterwards. We are not responsible for any actions you take on your vehicle. Transfer Case shifted and worked just fine for a few days, then quit working. I am having this exact same problem on my '05 Tahoe. Just the other day I got my hands on the service history for the '05 Tahoe I just bought, and it was a little worrysome to see that this sensor had been replaced 4 times in the last 3 years. When you mate the encoder sensor to the output shaft, be sure to align the encoder tab with the keyway groove on the shaft. I had already read this post and I figured I could do it myself and just replace the sensor like one of the earlier posters advised.