It will tell you a lot about where you need to be looking inside for damages. I would suggest an inch pound torque wrench as you also need to torque the valve body bolts 20-40 inch pounds to keep from warping the assy and causing the valve spools to bind. At the back of the transmission is the extension housing. We sell the total package, not something that will cost more in the long run or cost more after you buy everything you need one part at a time. I think there are some other suppliers too.
To cool the transmission, two brass lines connect the side of the transmission to the bottom of the radiator, where it is then cooled independently of the radiator fluid. I always replace this bush and extension housing bush as they are often worn. The absence of control pressure to components happens for several reasons: pump not making pressure, torque converter cavitated, stuck pressure relief valves, manual shift valve not working, valve body malfunction, failed servo piston, or failed clutch piston seals to name a few possibilities. Fluid leaks are typically caused by a defective cork gasket or rubber seal. If the transmission gets hot enough, the seals within the transmission will sustain damage. Common problems include a failure of the transmission to propel the vehicle forward, overheating and leaks.
The Maximizer Kit also increases the torque capacity of the transmission to make towing or off-roading a breeze. To get longevity and durability, a transmission must be properly installed and adjusted, which means a methodical approach to getting a fresh transmission into service. Each kit contains gaskets, seals, premium quality frictions, steels, high volume filter, and even a drain plug kit. This is where a step-by-step approach to the problem can help get you steered in the right direction. Steve Man, thank you for all of that information! Usually the hard parts are extra. Note where machined to use that bearing there is a shoulder left on the outer edge of the race to keep bearing in place.
Think of a torque converter like a water wheel in an old saw mill: the waterwheel is driven by fluid in motion. The other thing is that we don't have any good trans shops around here. You can be methodical and cover all the bases during a rebuild and still things can go wrong. I have done a few though, and I still wind up with problems now and then. Last edited by Gregaust on January 16th 2010, 3:29 pm; edited 3 times in total Reason for editing : edit A thread back from the dead.
The gears have little stamped in marks and those face the front of the trans on reassembly. My 1970 Ford shop manuals cover it quite well though, however you have to keep flipping back and forth through the pages. And be very careful of the front and only pump. I would just as soon replace about everything to start with to make sure it is right. These websites are updated sixteen hours per day seven days a week. Inspect the bottom of the gasket for signs of leaks.
Various degrees of rebuild kits out there, from just gaskets, to gaskets, seals, bushings, plates. There are some minor variations. Of course endfloat was set along the way. Engine oil should not be mistaken for transmission fluid, with its distinctive pink color. C4 teardown technique generally applies to the C6 as well, though there are some distinct differences in the ford c6 transmission and ford c4 transmission.
I would just as soon replace about everything to start with to make sure it is right. Not sure I qualify as Non-Professional, have done a few C6's Your best bet for parts is Jay Broader Performance. You will notice where the race is machined there is a locating shoulder around the outside keeps the bearing in place. At the front of the engine, between the engine and the transmission, is the torque converter. And I don't know about the Haynes.
With the engine running, does the transmission engage when you put it in drive or reverse? All the other gears run below 200psi so you could just skip reverse and test the Drive pressures. But the C6 is a very straight forward transmission to teardown and work on as I have learned. The extension housing is the metal portion of the transmission that the driveshaft enters. Thanks much Fordfool wrote:Man, thank you for all of that information! I was wondering if the typical C6 rebuild kits had the pump with it. Any advice on where to buy or a reputable brand name? Although a transmission adapter for an engine hoist would be darn nice.
I was thinking about getting the 5 volumes of the 70 ford pickup manuals. Teflon rings fitted to stator support before fitting pump into the case. So for those of you that 'non-professionally' rebuilt your C6's, how are they holding up. Frank lists the Ford part number below. Other than the tailshaft seal, that seems kinda unique.
Upon disassembly, the extension housing is unbolted and separated from the body of the transmission. Stick them in the grooveswith assembly lube to hold them in during assembly Front assembly together on the bench. It is only torqued to 10 ft lbs to convert to in lbs multiply by 12. Damaged lines should only be replaced with a flare-nut wrench. See 2nd pic of the bearing Frank mention later.